Mauritius: the explorer’s guide
We get that you love the palm-lined beaches, swimmable waters, and resort pools of South Africa’s favourite Indian Ocean island – so do we! But add these (too often overlooked) cultural and outdoor activities to your tropical stay, and your Mauritius escape will reach next level.
It takes little more than a few rum cocktails to spur the 29 strangers aboard Pasha, a catamaran sailing to and from Gabriel Island off Mauritius’s northwest coast, to join an impromptu sega dance. The near-equal split of French- and English-speaking tourists, with a German couple for good measure, break from their intimate clusters and private conversations, rise, and with unnecessary encouragement from gregarious deckhand Maeva, whose tropical rum cocktails have reduced collective inhibitions, give it all they’ve got, jazz hands in the air, then on their hips, before clapping, shimmying, twirling and repeating. With powdery white sands from the island excursion embedded between their toes, sarong-clad hips giving the occasional twerk, and here and there the outlines of a lobster-red sunburn beginning to show, the dancing holidaymakers – myself included – are having about as much fun as can be had on a weekday afternoon in Mauritius. Days later, when I spot two familiar faces at the airport, and thereafter aboard my flight, our acknowledgements are furtive and sheepish – polite smiles suffused with the understanding that we’ve seen each other day-dancing. Which, of course, is testimony to the potency of Mauritian rum, and a reason, if ever there was, to venture beyond the confines of beach resorts to discover all the island has to offer.
Convivial adventures like catamaran excursions are why Mauritius’s tourism board is increasingly encouraging holidaymakers to explore the island’s many natural wonders and rich cultural history. The November re-election of former prime minister Navin Ramgoolam (this, his fourth term as prime minister) may yield revisions to the government’s approach to tourism, but one hopes any new directive will continue to promote the island’s offerings over and above its beaches and warm waters, because from kayaking through mangroves in the north, to exploring museums in the west and geoparks in the south, there’s plenty for visitors to Mauritius to see and do that will give meaningful insights into the island.
EXPLORE NATURE
Whether it be north, south, east or west, every side of the island offers extraordinary natural wonders begging to be explored.
In the southwest hilltop village of Chamarel, not far from iconic Le Morne Mountain, is Chamarel 7 Coloured Earth Geopark. Surrounded by coffee, sugarcane and pineapple plantations, the geopark dates back to the 1960s, with ticketed entry recently consolidated so that a single ticket permits admission to the Chamarel waterfall, the geopark, tortoise enclosure and more. The waterfall is the highest on the island, fed by three rivers, with its waters gushing down a volcanic rock mountainside into pools one hundred metres below. Two lookout points offer scenic views of the waterfall, and visitors eager to swim in its pools can book an additional three-hour excursion. Even more impressive are the nearby lunar-like dunes, the colourful sands of which have lent their name to the geopark. Aluminium and iron oxides millions of years old have resulted in an ombre hilly landscape of dunes in shades of red, brown, deep purple and maroon. Chamarel 7 Coloured Earth Geopark, its café and souvenir shop are suitable for both adults and children, with ample signage throughout the park drawing visitors’ attention to interesting geological facts about the terrain. Insider tip: Easily missed is a roadside planting of red pineapples not far from the dunes. While not edible, the bright red pineapples grow in stark contrast to their surrounding foliage, making for another geopark photo opportunity.
www.chamarel7colouredearth.com
Also with a tortoise enclosure, but perhaps most known for its giant waterlily pond (well worth a visit), is Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden situated midway between Port Louis and Grand Baie in the northwest. One of the oldest botanical gardens in the southern hemisphere, the sprawling property has its origins in the mid 1700s when the French governor at the time, Mahé de Labourdonnais, resided near today’s main entrance. Various listed monuments are dotted around the garden, including the photogenic Chateau de Mon Plaisir. But it’s plant life that’s the real hero, with the garden including more than 80 species of palm, medicinal and spice gardens, and an array of flowering tropical plants like shell ginger, Red silk cotton trees, Clusia and Canon Ball trees. Insider tip: Not all plants of interest are well signposted. To make the most of time in the garden, and to discover fascinating insights into all things botanical, book a guide on arrival.
www.ssrbg.govmu.org
Whilst north, consider a kayaking excursion with Yemaya Adventures around Amber Island, considered to be one of Mauritius’s largest coast-hugging islands, and not far from LUX* Grand Gaube. Today uninhabited, Amber Island’s past includes Dutch habitation in the mid 1600s, residents at the time transporting livestock to the island for cultivation. Dodos were spotted here at much the same time. Now Mauritius’s third largest national park and a haven for birdlife, Amber Island safeguards the country’s northeast coast through an expansive network of mangroves. And it’s through and around these that a three-hour guided kayaking tour begins. Prior kayaking experience isn’t necessary, but expect to be on the water for a good two thirds of that time. The waters, in places, are clear and shallow, making fish spotting (and looking for oysters growing on mangrove roots) something fun to do. The excursion includes a brief walkabout and pitstop (think refreshments and homemade snacks). Insider tip: Request Enrico as a guide; with experience in the culinary world, the pickled green mango he serves is so tasty, you’ll want to recreate the simple recipe at home.
www.yemayaadventures.com
Exploring Mauritius’s coastline by sea offers a different perspective on the island’s beloved beaches. While resorts’ water-based activities tend to hug the shores, it’s properly on the waters that one gets to swim with turtles off Mont Choisy beach or submarine through reefs near Trou Aux Biches. Catamaran cruises tend to congregate in the north, northeast, west and southeast, with anything from shared adventures (hello, communal sega dancing!) to private and sunset cruises available. A North Coast Shared Catamaran Cruise with Blue Safari leaves Grand Baie at 9am, heading for Gabriel Island by way of Flat Island. Approximately half of the six-hour cruise is travel time, with the remainder spent at leisure anchored in the turquoise waters of the uninhabited Gabriel Island. It’s here holidaymakers get to snorkel, swim, tan and explore, before returning to the catamaran for a BBQ-style lunch (think lobster tails, grilled marlin, salads and more) and well, a near endless supply of Maeva’s colourful rum cocktails. Insider tip: Brush up on your shimmying and twirling in advance, and pack sunscreen, towels, and sunglasses – those covetable turquoise waters come with glare!
www.blue-safari.com
DISCOVER HISTORY
There’s an explosion of culture around capital city Port Louis, with enough to see and do to easily make a day of it.
Aapravasi Ghat is a poignant place to kickstart one’s cultural excursion, specifically for the interesting insights it offers into the origins of modern indentured labour. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s housed in the remains of an immigration depot built in 1849 alongside harbour moorings. It’s at this quay, following the abolition of slavery in British colonies in 1833, that the British government first introduced the ‘Great Experiment’, an indentured labour system that shipped just short of half a million labourers (recruited from India, China, South East Asia, and closer to home, Mozambique, with each labourer contracted for anywhere between one to five years) to Mauritius. Housed at Aapravasi Ghat for two days so that health inspections could be conducted and immigration paperwork sorted, men, women and child labourers were subsequently relocated to sugarcane plantations across the island. A tour of Aapravasi Ghat explores the restored depot, takes in artifacts used by the indentured, and presents moving histories of life for these immigrants. Insider tip: Aapravasi Ghat is an emotional experience, and one that shouldn’t be rushed; so set aside one to two hours. For a more personalised experience, guided tours can be booked in advance.
www.aapravasighat.org
Within close walking distance is Central Market. A visit here offers access to a curios market at which vendors sell everything from handwoven crafts to saris, Mauritian souvenirs to fresh flowers, as well as to a meat market where butchers peddle chicken feet, whole ducks, and the occasional goat’s head. The latter’s for the bravehearted, but has nothing, by way of scale, sights and sounds on the bustling fresh produce market a street away. Within these walls, a vast array of tropical fruits and vegetables are on offer. Stalls sell much the same as their neighbours, with the exceptions being vendors specialising in spices. Laser-like beams of natural light shine through skylights and spotlight traders here and there, locals upset perfectly balanced displays in their efforts to score the freshest fruits, and tourists buy litchis on stalks or snack on spiralled pineapple. Insider tip: Make a beeline for the fresh produce market; it’s colourful displays of farmed goods are wonderfully exotic. Cash sales only here. If maxing your credit card is what you’re after, head to the nearby Le Caudan Waterfront, a fast-growing precinct that includes designer shopping, craft stores, a food court and restaurants, casino, cinema, arts centre and Blue Penny Museum. Bridges over waterways, pedestrian streets and glimpses of towering cruise ships in the adjacent harbour make Le Caudan Waterfront as global a destination as you’ll find in Mauritius.
www.caudan.com
Creole dining is second only to the historic homesteads themselves at Eureka House (above, top row) and Domaine de Labourdonnais (above, bottom row), two history-rich destinations that offer insights – both through tours of the homesteads as well as over traditional lunches – into bygone Mauritian lifestyles. Located in Moka, Eureka House was built around 1836 for Sir Henri Le Clézio, and it was here that his wife gave birth to 17 children, themselves parents to 104 grandchildren. Today, Eureka House is owned by descendants of the Le Clézios; they’ve preserved the charming mansion as a museum, and walk and talk visitors through the rooms and gardens, the subjects of several documentaries. Following this, a traditional – and very delicious – three course lunch is served on the beautiful veranda. Domaine de Labourdonnais’s founding dates back to 1774 (it last year celebrated its 250th anniversary), when, with time, it became one of the largest sugar plantations on the island. The château, built between 1856 and 1859, has a French colonial architectural influence, not unlike similar historic homesteads in South Carolina. Today the château serves as a museum, with a visit including access to multiple rooms, an underground museum, animal farm, and gardens. Lunches and dinners are served at La Table du Château, a modern structure with views of the iconic homestead and gardens.
www.eureka-house.com and www.domainedelabourdonnais.com
GETTING AROUND
For South Africans, driving in Mauritius is on the same side of the road as back home, making renting a car for a day or two a worthwhile means of getting about. Roads meander through vast swathes of countryside, past everything from sugarcane fields to forests, over bridges spanning rivers, and alongside temples, bus stops and roadside eateries. And while local drivers tend to be courteous, they’re generally not known for their driving skills. Uber isn’t available in the country, but taxis are plentiful, and generally charge about Rs1 000 (+/- R390) for an hour’s worth of driving. Most hotels and resorts will gladly facilitate booking third-party excursions.
