Porto call
From the centuries-old to the brand new, Portugal’s second largest city offers charm, style, and memorable delights aplenty. Deputy editor Martin Jacobs reports on six under-the-radar experiences that will enhance even the shortest of Porto stays.
It was the unexpected and adrenalin-fuelling gunshot sound of a pot plant shattering on contact with a pavement mere metres from me that remains, many months later, one of my most vivid memories of my time in Porto. That said pot plant, having fallen from a balcony six storeys above, didn’t injure or kill a passing pedestrian is noteworthy, especially given the incident took place outside the entrance to the city’s popular Manteigaria pasteis de nata store. This, and the risk of being pickpocketed while one’s eyes cast upwards to the tile work in Sao Bento train station, may be as dangerous as Porto gets. Easily manageable on foot, better yet with an upward eye outdoors not just for fear of falling paraphernalia but more so to take in the city’s historic architecture, Porto is as deserving of your time as is its closest rival, Lisbon. Asked repeatedly by natives to both (while sensing that the Portuense – or Tripeiro, informally – put greater hope in my answer favouring theirs) whether it’s Lisbon or Porto that I prefer, I can only answer that each offers distinct rewards. Lisbon’s gritty streets feel to me less touristy than Porto, with its concentration of visitors along Ribeira, its congested riverside strip. That said, the experiences that follow are what cemented Porto firmly in my mind.
Be one of the cool kids; book a stay at…
THE REBELLO
Porto’s most hotly anticipated hotel opening of 2023 was not only the city’s newest, but also the talk of the town when I visited midyear. In conversation with locals, when the subject of where I was staying arose, there was a noticeable excitement and curiosity at my mention of The Rebello (the newest five-star establishment from Bomporto Hotels, until now most known for Lisbon’s The Lumiares and The Vintage). And rightly so, for The Rebello is unlike any other hotel in Porto. To begin with, the property is technically not in Porto, but rather along the riverbank (south of the Douro River) in Vila Nova de Gaia. If it’s not strange enough that a river (in the Douro’s case one that’s not particularly wide) can be home to two cities facing one another across its banks, stranger yet is the somewhat remote location The Rebello occupies. It’s a solid fifteen-minute walk from the Dom Luís I Bridge – most used by tourists to cross between Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto – beyond the historic port wine establishments popular for their tastings, on a stretch of riverbank that until now has been largely derelict. So why then the excitement surrounding its launch?
To begin with, one won’t find a better room with a view of Porto – and Gustave Eiffel’s iconic Dom Luís I Bridge – than from The Rebello. To say the outlook from the hotel’s river-facing rooms, as well as from its rooftop terrace restaurant and bar, is picture-postcard perfect is an understatement. It’s iconic. The hotel offers unparalleled views of Igreja de Santa Clara and Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, the hilltop landmarks at either end of the bridge. Coupled with a front-row seat to the Douro’s bustling nautical activity, which includes tourist-heavy rabelos (historic wooden boats after which the hotel is named) and river cruise ships, this makes for panoramic views that turn any departure from The Rebello into a hardship.
Seven unoccupied industrial buildings, their origins in the 1800s and formerly a kitchen utensils factory (the inspiration behind restaurants Pot&Pan and Rooftop Bello) have been cleverly converted into 103 apartment-style studios, suites, duplexes, and penthouses, a spa and more. And it’s the interiors of these generously proportioned spaces that is the second reason The Rebello should be a must-stay for any aesthete. Interior designer Daniela Franceschini has filled the hotel with what can only be described as uber cool decorating. Inspired by how creatives have used or inhabited industrial spaces in recent centuries, Franceschini has combined vintage, punk and contemporary aesthetics, her designs united by four elements – water, wood, wine, and industry. Undulating mirrors, maritime-themed lighting, curvilinear furniture, artworks by Pedro Guimarães, collectibles by Grau Cerâmica, all paired within industrial finishes, make for apartments and communal spaces that feel youthful and unintimidating. A modern space in an old place, The Rebello is Porto’s new must-stay, a hotel that, regardless of whether you’re stepping in or stepping out, will leave you feeling sexier.
Hot tip: Be sure to book one of the river-facing apartments and enjoy Porto views whilst savouring the complimentary selection of local artisanal snacks.
Smell old, but in a really good way, with products from…
CLAUS PORTO
If, like me, you’ve a weakness for small-batch artisanal fragrances and grooming products (the likes of Carthusia, Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, and South Africa’s own Wild Olive), then no stay in Porto would be complete without a visit to Portugal’s equivalent, Claus Porto. The soap and fragrance company’s store in Rua das Flores (there’s another in Rua da Misericórdia, and one in Lisbon) would be my recommendation, as it includes an exhibition of the brand’s history and packaging design. I can still recall the scent of my first Claus Porto soap-on-a-rope, gifted to me by a colleague, in a (disappointingly) now discontinued scent, Oak Moss. But the good news is that in its place, two new Musgo Real fragrances have recently been released, Black Edition and Alto Mar. From soap boxsets to solid shampoos, fragrances to candles, olfactory pleasure exists at Claus Porto in scents (with names as seductive as their olfactory pyramids) including Chypre Cedar Poinsettia, Elite Tonka Imperial, Madrigal Water Lily, and Banho Citron Verbena (the latter, the preferred toiletry at The Rebello).
Hot tip: If for no other reason than to check this out, the three-level Rua das Flores store is worth a visit, for in compact form it outlines Claus Porto’s evolution, from German-founded soap factory in 1887, to the release of its Musgo Real men’s collection in 1936, to its rebranding (contemporary takes on its beautiful Art Deco packaging) in 2016.
Discover Porto’s multicultural influences; spend time at…
TOREL 1884
Way ahead of finalising my Portuguese itinerary, I fantasized about staying at Torel 1884 Hotel. Housed in a truly beautiful historic palace in the very heart of the city, and with only twelve rooms, the hotel’s themes of exploration and adventure seduced me. My wishful thinking included a preferred room, Porcelanas. So, it was fortuitous (given the reservations team were unaware of my preferences) that on arrival, I was assigned this very room (the key for which was old-fashioned, heavy, and out of a fairytale!). The staff at Torel 1884 stop just short of being mind readers; respectfully and unobtrusively they intuit one’s every need. I’ve very rarely experienced service as personalised as theirs. It’s a luxury in itself. And one of many at the hotel. What today we take for granted, are the little luxuries that were the concept behind the hotel’s interiors. Rooms are loosely themed around tea, coffee, porcelain, silk, cardamom, and cinnamon to name a few – all once exotic luxuries that Portuguese explorers introduced to home soil.
Situated over three floors and leading off a triple-volume atrium (complete with original grand staircase), the unique rooms and suites draw inspiration from Portugal’s voyages of discovery. The ground floor relates to African exploration, the first to the Americas, and the top floor rooms an homage to Eastern discoveries. Like mine, Porcelanas. Street facing, with enormous windows showcasing Porto’s skyline, the spacious porcelain-inspired room is deep blue, with a canopy bed and antique settee. Finishes are in velvet, brass and wood, and a specially commissioned artwork by Jorge Curval hangs above the freestanding tub. On the landing outside, a cosy lounge complete with books and comfy sofas, as well as an honesty bar, all illuminated by natural light flooding through the palace’s skylight, are intimate spaces for guests to enjoy.
Equally enjoyable is a meal, or drink, at Bartolomeu Bistro & Wine. Inspired by seafarer Bartolomeu Dias, the streetside restaurant is beautifully decorated, open day and night, and stocked with an impressive variety of wines from all corners of the country. Chef Miguel Neto prepares a wonderfully delicate tuna tartare, an equally delicious, cured mackerel with mango, green apple and chilli salad, and the tastiest – and prettiest – deconstructed apple crumble (with almond and vanilla) that I’ve had in years. Bartolomeu Bistro & Wine is open to guests as well as the public.
Hot tip: Strengthen your knowledge of Portuguese wines at the bistro; Mâitre d’ of the establishment, Miguel Lopes is a wealth of knowledge about national varietals, wine estates and viniculture, and will gladly share with you the backstories behind the wines on offer. Politely requested, he’ll invite you to visit the restaurant’s wine cellar, the palace’s former bank vault, resplendent with stone-clad arched ceiling and impenetrable vault door.
Stroll through Porto’s centuries-old past; sign up for a…
WALKING TOUR
Francisco Lopes could quite possibly be Porto’s youngest tour guide. But don’t be fooled into thinking that his twenty-something age means he’s any less knowledgeable about Porto’s past than other guides. A local, he’s first and foremost a qualified geographer, and it’s this that gives him the edge when it comes to understanding Porto’s history. I’m fortunate to tour the city with Francisco as a guest of Torel 1884, a hotel that recently began offering its guests complimentary walking tours. His 2-to-3-hour tour has been billed as a chronological history of the city, and it doesn’t disappoint. What sounds like a lengthy stroll of Porto’s hilly streets passes in a fascinating flash, in our case beginning at Igreja de Santa Clara, working our way down narrow medieval streets to the riverfront before heading back into and around newer Porto. Fluent in English and personable, Francisco reveals the history of Porto by explaining street design, architectural detail, and city planning. Discover the importance of Rua das Flores, why the Clérigos Tower is less architecturally significant than one might think, and where the city’s hidden river flows. I’m willing to wager that the insights he reveals are unknown to most locals; they’re certainly not as entertainingly communicated in guidebooks.
Hot tip: Not staying at Torel 1884 and would like to book a walking tour with Francisco? No problem – contact him to arrange bespoke tours of the city. And if he should lead you past Manteigaria, a leading pasteis de nata store in Portugal, insist on stopping in to grab a memorable pastry. Just be sure to look up first!
franciscoplps@gmail.com; +351 917 711 670
Nurture your inner wellbeing with a stay at…
SABOARIA
It takes a measure of entrepreneurial genius to imagine soap making as an act of wellbeing. The business-minded trio behind Saboaria, a five-star hotel comprising 28 apartments, are the Israeli founders of Porto-based Tamar, a company that develops and manages boutique hotels. New on Porto’s hotel scene, Saboaria, their second hotel in the city, has already won an award for urban rehabilitation. Situated near Avenida dos Aliados and the newly renovated Mercado do Bolhão (which the locals tell me has lost significant historic charm as a result of its upgrade), the buildings that house Saboaria have been, until now, home to the Bolhão Soap Factory. In contrast to the rather soulless overhaul of Mercado do Bolhão, Saboaria’s renovation sensitively references the buildings’ former use by honouring materials found on site, and pairing them with interiors that are soft, textural, and soothing.
Wellness was foremost in the entrepreneurial trio’s thinking when conceptualising the establishment. Its discreet street façade reveals nothing of the landscaped courtyard garden onto which most of the hotel’s apartments face, including mine, a top-floor corner suite with generous balconies that take in the garden, spa, and heated pool and jacuzzi three floors below. It’s in these manicured gardens that complimentary yoga and Pilates classes are held (I wake to the sound of gentle ohms), and indoors that soap-making workshops take place. The spa, formerly an annexe to the factory, specialises in energising guests through treatments that include phytotherapy, aromatherapy and biocosmetics. All products used in treatments are Portuguese, and guests can opt for massages at the spa (which houses a steam room) or in their apartments. Yoga mats come standard in all apartments, which include fully equipped kitchens. Colours are muted throughout the hotel, and in apartments are given life and warmth through the inclusion of wicker, linen, and terracotta.
Hot tip: A minute’s walk from Saboaria, Trinidade subway station offers fast access to Ribeira, Porto’s tourist-centric riverside strip complete with eateries and bars. Disembark at São Bento train station, famous for its historic tile work, and walk down Rua das Flores to the riverfront.
Expand your knowledge of Porto’s past with a visit to…
SERRALVES
Much like a day spent at Versailles, adding the historic Serralves park, foundation and museum to your to-do list will guarantee an experience that is part history lesson, part cultural exploration, and part outdoor adventure. Comprising a contemporary art museum, an Art Deco villa built predominantly in the 1930s, and a park spanning 18 hectares (which includes a treetop walk not for the faint-hearted), Serralves is an outing that demands the better part of a day. My highlights include the interior architecture of the salmon-coloured villa (once the private residence of the second Count of Vizela, Carlos Alberto Cabral, and now a national monument), along with a garden room that’s home to artist Anish Kapoor’s mesmerising and reflective Sky Mirror sculpture, and several photogenic water features that beg to be shared on Instagram. Equally impressive are the treetop walk which opened in 2019 and which I can only manage in part, given my aversion to heights (Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden’s Boomslang is diminutive by comparison), and the charming ‘vintage’ tennis court with its adjacent café.
Hot tip: Several sculptures from Serralves’s permanent collection are dotted around the park, including worthwhile stops for works by Claes Oldenburg, Rui Chafes and Angelo De Sousa – following the pathways on the map of the garden will lead you to these, and other, sculptures. If you’re visiting in summer, visit early, spending time in the gardens when temperatures are cool, and moving indoors when the heat becomes too much. The park is expansive with some areas far shadier than others, so ensure you pack sunscreen and headwear.
