Plating Africa
Know your bambara from your berbere, and your prekese from your pap with The Contemporary African Kitchen. Explore our continent from your kitchen in these recipes extracted from Phaidon’s latest release.
If South African book designer Gabrielle Guy’s playful, colourful cover for Phaidon’s newly-published The Contemporary African Kitchen doesn’t seduce you, the personal anecdotes and accompanying recipes from some of the continent’s most inspired chefs certainly will. Divided into five chapters that segment Africa into regions – northern, southern, western, eastern and central – the book includes 120 recipes (all suited to home cooking) that speak to the heritage behind the continent’s ever-growing food movement. South Africa’s Mogau Seshoene – better known as The Lazy Makoti, Thabo Phake – a former head chef at Joburg’s Proud Mary, and Sinoyolo Sifo – also known as Sifo The Cooking Husband on social media, share some of their favourite recipes, including spicy chakalaka, corn bread, and a beef-and-dumpling stew. An incredible addition to any coffee table, we assure you The Contemporary African Kitchen is better served put to use in your kitchen.
Zimbabwe
BILTONG WITH CHILI TOMATO SAUCE AND SADZA (by Kudakwashe Makoni)
Biltong is one of my favorite things. It is a popular South African dish made with a variety of dried, cured meats, from beef to game. It can be eaten on its own or, as we do in Zimbabwe, you can make a stew out of it. Peanut butter sauce or tomato sauce are great with biltong. My grandmother used to make my uncle a special tomato, onion, and chili sauce called sumu. Here, I bring together all of these familiar flavors and memories into one dish.
This recipe includes amasi, a fermented milk used to make sadza, or Zimbabwean cornmeal (maize meal) polenta. The name comes from the Zulu, Xhosa, and Ndebele languages of South Africa. Ndebele is also spoken in Zimbabwe.
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Serves 4
For the sadza
3 cups (350 g) fine cornmeal (maize meal)
scant 3 cups (700 ml) boiling water
1⁄3 cup (100 ml) fermented milk or amasi (substitute with buttermilk or kefir)
salt, to taste
For the biltong
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, diced
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 × 400 g can chopped tomatoes
2 red chilies, chopped
1⁄3 cup (80 ml) vegetable or chicken stock (or water)
600 g biltong, cut into strips (if the butcher has already cut it, choose pieces with a little fat on them)
salt and pepper, to taste
For the sadza, add 11⁄2 cups (150 g) of the cornmeal (maize meal) to a large pot with just enough cold water to make a smooth paste. Place the pot on medium–high heat, and while stirring, slowly add the boiling water. Stirring evenly and constantly, to prevent the cornmeal from settling and hardening at the bottom of the pan, allow the mixture to boil on medium–high heat for about 10 minutes. Then add extra cornmeal, 1⁄2 cup (50 g) at a time, and stir the sadza until it reaches a smooth yet thick texture.
After the sadza reaches the desired thickness and texture and is well mixed, take it off the heat and cover, then let it set for 2 minutes; it will harden a little bit more. At this stage add the sour/fermented milk and whisk until you get a creamy version of what you reached earlier. (It will sort of resemble very lumpy cottage cheese.) Season according to taste.
While your sadza is simmering, you can make the biltong stew. In a saucepan on high heat, add the oil and sauté the onion and garlic for 3 minutes until translucent. Lower the heat to medium, then add the tomatoes and chilies, and let it simmer for 6 minutes until the tomatoes have softened. Pour in your stock, mix, and simmer for around 7 minutes, until you have a thick sauce. Remove from the stove and set aside. Place the biltong in the “stew,” with salt and pepper to taste, and let it steep for about 10 minutes.
To plate, place a large heap of sadza in the middle of each plate, top with the biltong, and spoon some tomato and chili stew on top.
Gabon
CAPTAIN’S BROTH (by O’Miel Moundounga)
Gabon is renowned for its delicious broths, whether prepared with fresh or smoked fish. What makes these dishes special is the exceptional quality and judicious choice of the fish pieces used. For this recipe, I have opted for a perfect captain’s fish fillet. The natural gelatin present in this piece acts as a binder and gives the dish its characteristic consistency. Additionally, selected local spices add a unique and exceptional flavor to this magnificent broth. Every bite tells the captivating story of the Atlantic Ocean and the picturesque beaches of Mayumba.
When you taste this typically Gabonese dish, your palate will dance to the rhythm of the exquisite aromas that emerge.
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves: 2
450 g fresh white fish fillets (about 5 pieces)
1 teaspoon chopped fresh root ginger
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
2 tomatoes, cut into quarters
2 okra, sliced into rounds
1 onion, finely chopped
2 fresh green chili peppers
pinch of mufira (country onion)
3⁄4 cup (100 g) chopped sorrel
salt and pepper, to taste
parsley, to garnish, if desired
Carefully place all the ingredients in a saucepan, followed by 13/4 cups (430 ml) of water. Cover and cook over low–medium heat for 20 minutes.
Serve this succulent broth in individual bowls and savor each mouthful.
Morocco
SLOW-COOKED LAMB SHOULDER (by Farida Zamradje)
If you’re looking for the perfect dish for a gathering, you’ve come to the right place. In Morocco, lamb is a culinary icon that is common at celebrations and family gatherings. The key to this recipe is patience. While the difficult part is waiting eight hours to enjoy the lamb shoulder, you’ll thank yourself when you achieve the final result. The aroma of spices and vegetables with the tender meat will embrace you so warmly that clearing your plate will be inevitable.
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 8 hours
Serves 2
50 g ground coriander
1⁄4 cup (50 g) butter, softened
1 tablespoon fine salt
1.5 kg lamb shoulder
1.5 kg onions, roughly chopped
250 g carrots, roughly chopped
250 g potatoes, roughly chopped
1 heaping tablespoon cumin seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle, to garnish
finishing salt, to garnish
Preheat the oven to 140°F/60°C/Gas Mark 1/4.
Combine the coriander, butter, and salt in a bowl. Brush the mixture over the lamb shoulder.
Place the onions in a pot and add the lamb shoulder on top. Add 1/3 cup (100 ml) of water, cover with a lid, and cook for 8 hours.
About 20 minutes before the end of the lamb cooking time, steam the carrots and potatoes in a steamer, or in a steaming basket set over a pan of simmering water, until tender.
Debone and shred the lamb shoulder into smaller chunks. Place the vegetables in the bottom of a tagine serving bowl, with the pieces of lamb shoulder on top. Garnish with the ground cumin seeds and finishing salt, and serve.
Nigeria
BUTTERED BAMBARA WITH VEGETABLES, RODO OIL, AND TOASTED EGUSI RELISH
(by Ikenna Akwuebue Bobmanuel)
My introduction to bambara beans took place at the bustling Nima market in Accra, Ghana, where a plethora of local ingredients dazzled my senses. Upon discovering their creamy texture, akin to chickpeas, I excitedly dubbed them “West African chickpeas,” sparking my enduring fascination with incorporating bambara beans into my culinary creations. From crafting hummus to using them as a sauce thickener or in vegan patties, these versatile beans have become a staple in my kitchen.
In this recipe, I showcase the versatility of bambara beans by preparing buttered bambara with vegetables, a dish known as ewa agonyi in Yoruba culture and gobe among Ghanaians. The beans’ creamy consistency, complemented by the vibrant hue and fragrance of turmeric, combined with the irresistible flavor of white wine, creates a delightful dish.
Cultivated in West Africa, bambara beans are small, hard, spherical seeds similar in size to chickpeas. Like peanuts, they mature underground, exhibiting a range of colors from black, dark brown, and red, to white and cream, or a blend of these hues. Their nutty, earthy flavor is a cross between chickpeas and pinto beans.
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Serves 2
For the buttered bambara
4 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil
11⁄2 red or white onions
1 sprig thyme
2 bay leaves
1⁄2 garlic bulb, peeled
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cumin
11⁄2 cups dry white wine
1⁄2 cup (115 g) bambara beans, cooked
11⁄2 tablespoons lemon juice
1⁄2 bouillon (stock) cube (optional)
salt and pepper, to taste
For the roasted vegetables
2 small beets (beetroot), peeled and quartered
2 baby carrots, blanched and quartered
1⁄2 cup (75 g) cauliflower florets
2 tablespoons melted ghee
1 sprig thyme
For the toasted egusi relish
1 tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1⁄4 cup (30 g) egusi seeds, toasted
handful cilantro (coriander), chopped
1⁄2 tablespoon shrimp powder
lemon zest, to taste, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 teaspoons cayenne pepper
Rodo oil
2 star anise
1 teaspoon cloves
5 atarodo or scotch bonnet peppers
6 cloves garlic
1⁄2 cup (120 ml) palm oil
For the buttered bambara, heat the oil in a medium sauté pan on medium heat. Add the onions and sauté for 4 minutes until translucent. Add the fresh thyme, bay leaves, garlic, turmeric, and cumin. Sauté for another 3 minutes to activate their flavors. Add the white wine to deglaze and cook down for 3–5 minutes. Add the cooked bambara and some water, if needed, and simmer for 10–12 minutes. Season with salt and pepper (and a squeeze of lemon or the bouillon stock cube). Purée until smooth, then set aside.
Preheat the oven to 300°F/150°C/Gas Mark 2.
For the roasted vegetables, place the vegetables in a roasting pan, then drizzle the melted ghee on the vegetables, add the thyme, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Roast in the oven for 8–10 minutes until slightly charred.
Meanwhile, for the toasted egusi relish, in a small sauté pan on medium–low heat, add the oil. Add the garlic and sauté for 3 minutes until aromatic. Add the toasted egusi seeds and cilantro (coriander), stir, and cook for about 2–3 minutes. Add the shrimp powder, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
For the rodo oil, heat a pan on medium heat. Add the star anise and cloves and dry-toast for 4–5 minutes until fragrant. Slightly smash the peppers and garlic using the side of your knife with a gentle hit. Add all the ingredients to a small saucepan and cook on very low heat for 20–30 minutes to confit. Let cool, then store in a container.
To plate, place a circle of the bambara purée on the bottom with the vegetables stacked on top to create height. Add the egusi relish on top of the veggies and drizzle with the rodo oil (or drizzle the oil around the spherical base of bambara purée).
The Contemporary African Kitchen, by Alexander Smalls, is published by Phaidon and is available at leading bookstores.
