Lisbon’s best boutique hotels
Martin Jacobs checks in at – so you can check out – these perfectly designed luxe Lisbon stays. They’re guaranteed to make you want to linger longer in Portugal’s capital city. (Looking for more Lisbon hotels? Check them out here.)
TOREL PALACE
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Best for You’ll be hard-pressed to find better panoramic views of Lisbon
Neighbourhood Housed in several buildings and historic palaces at the top of one of Lisbon’s many hills, this one in the Baixa neighbourhood, Torel Palace has as its neighbours the pretty Torel Gardens, the university’s striking medical school faculty, as well as the Lavra funicular.
Ambience Spread across four buildings, three of which are historic palaces, Torel Palace feels truly boutique and shares a similar eclectic aesthetic to its sister hotel Torel 1884 in Porto. If there’s an overriding décor aesthetic, in the best possible way it’s that ‘anything goes’, provided that anything means a considered fusion of historical elements (the rooms take the names of Portuguese royalty), contemporary art and design, and unique standout pieces. The gardens and pools are split across multiple levels and are charming – quiet and tranquil areas removed from the bustle of the hotel, and with unbeatable views across Lisbon.
Rooms The fewer than forty rooms are all individually decorated, with no two rooms looking the same or sharing the same configuration. Eleven room categories offer guests a wealth of options, and mean repeat visits need not feel samey. Spend time when choosing a room – some offer balconies, others jacuzzis; there’s a private villa too for those intent on a more secluded stay.
Don’t miss For one of the city’s most memorable dining experiences, book dinner at 2Monkeys, Torel Palace’s Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant. Awarded the star within months of opening (in 2023), 2Monkeys democratises the chef’s table concept, seating a maximum of fourteen guests at an intimate counter that – on three sides – surrounds the open kitchen. A more voyeuristic and interactive plating experience there may not be, with all dishes on the (manageable 12-course) tasting menu plated by chef Guilherme Spalk and his team right before one.
Lifestyling loves With its deep colour palette of greens and browns and its wood-panelled walls, bar and ceiling, Duke’s Bar, a stylish interpretation of the classic British club, gets our thumbs up. In summer’s hottest months, Duke’s cool interiors and filtered light offer desirable respite from the baking Lisbon heat.
LUMEN HOTEL
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Best for Rooftop pool and nightly light show
Neighbourhood Located very close to a subway station in Picoas, Lumen Hotel boasts as its neighbours upmarket department store El Corte Ingles, The Gulbenkian Museum, and the nearby Parque Eduardo VII.
Ambience There’s an urban sexiness to a stay at Lumen Hotel. It’s not the sort of sexy that’s often associated with intimate spaces decorated in plush fabrics and jewel-tone colours, but rather a sexiness, as the hotel’s name suggests, that comes from light. From the custom-designed Burel Factory curtains that filter natural light into the lobby and lounge, to the crisp Southern European sunlight that bathes the red-tiled pool in its warm glow, and finally to the courtyard’s nightly Lisbon Light Show that sees out each day, guests can’t help but notice the intelligent ways in which lighting has been maximised at Lumen Hotel. Celebrating its fourth year, the hotel’s aesthetic is entirely contemporary, and – if anything – feels more Scandi than it does typically Portuguese.
Rooms Architect Frederico Valsassina’s predominantly glass building boasts floor-to-ceiling windows throughout that offer urban views and flood rooms on all six floors with natural light. The Scandi aesthetic extends into these spaces, which are spacious, sleek, and characterised by a strong use of light wood, with décor accents in colour palettes Golden Dawn, Copper Nightfall and Pure Light, all plays on light. Options for in-room mood lighting are plentiful, and offer guests any number of possibilities. The beds are generous in size, and bedside pedestals house electronic tablets that make navigating one’s stay easier. Bathroom amenities include toiletries by local brand Benamor. Rooms on the sixth floor cater primarily to executive guests, and include access to a co-working space.
Don’t miss Staying at Lumen Hotel in the warmer seasons? Then be sure to spend time at Ora d’Ora Rooftop Bar and pool, both with spectacular views across Lisbon.
Lifestyling loves Designed for the enjoyment of guests, the nightly Lisbon Light Show is a 15-minute video-mapping projection of images and sounds that transforms the walls of the hotel’s courtyard. The visuals and sounds play with both daily and iconic elements of Lisbon life, and are a fun way to start – or end – one’s evening.
BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL
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Best for A pampering and luxurious experience that’s deserving of a sixth star
Neighbourhood Housed across several buildings on the periphery between the stylish Chiado neighbourhood and bohemian Bairro Alto, the hotel is close enough to the city’s best designer stores to make strolling to them a breeze, but sufficiently removed to offer a peaceful stay.
Ambience Considered Lisbon’s original boutique hotel (it opened in 2005), Bairro Alto Hotel has since undergone major upgrades and renovations, with Pritzker-Prize winning architect Souto de Moura tackling architectural changes and returning design duo Bastir responsible for the hotel’s extremely plush interiors. The ambience is upmarket without feeling intimidating, achieved by a tactile combination of classical and contemporary decorating. Art and photography are everywhere, with artworks by the who’s who of Portugal’s artists, like sculptor Rui Chafes striking work in the lobby.
Rooms 87 rooms and suites of all sizes and categories span two types: Chiado, characterised by their nod to the historic buildings’ original architectural detailing, and Tejo, more contemporary in hard finishes. Regardless of room type, all feel wonderfully luxurious thanks to bold colours, considered pattern play and collectibles by local artists like ceramicist Anna Westerlund (check out her store nearby). Indulgent touches like fresh flowers and Le Labo toiletries add to the luxe factor. For guests with comfort top of mind, there’s a pillow menu, and some rooms include electronic curtains.
Don’t miss BAHR Restaurant and Terrace on the fifth floor is considered one of the city’s best. It’s here that breakfast is served (from an a la carte menu which equally makes for a great brunch too), but dinner on the terrace is a must, preferably preceded by cocktails at the hotel’s rooftop bar. Both outdoor spaces offer truly special views of the Tagus River, and one can detect a pleasing mix of local and foreign accents at both, for Bairro Alto Hotel is as much a hotspot for Lisbonites as it is a destination for visitors.
Lifestyling loves Pastelaria, accessed from within the hotel or from the street, is Bairro Alto Hotel’s own patisserie, serving a curated and delicious selection of both sweet and savoury pastries. Order a few and make your way to the Mezzanine lounge, an ultra-chic space perfect for enjoying some intimate downtime.
THE VERSE
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Best for Sophisticated and spacious aparthotel living in central Lisbon
Neighbourhood Located in São Bento neighbourhood in Rua de São Bento, a charming street complete with antique furniture and vintage clothing stores as well as many trendy coffee roasteries, the newly-opened The Verse has as its neighbours the impressive São Bento Palace, home to Portugal’s parliament, as well as the house-museum of Amália Rodrigues, a famous fado diva. Tram 28 passes by the aparthotel.
Ambience Incredibly stylish, The Verse is housed in a previously abandoned building that Portuguese architect Carrilho da Graça spent four years restoring. Collaborating with the architect was Studio Astolfi, responsible for the elegant interior architecture, as well as for the interior design with its olive green, terracotta and biscuit tone palette, and predominance of organic materials including oak and walnut timber, Verde Viana marble, pink limestone and micro cement. Offsetting this muted interior scheme are brightly-coloured abstract paintings.
Apartments The Verse is home to fifteen apartments, two on ground level (complete with private patios that include dining tables and loungers) and thirteen above street level, some with terraces or Juliet balconies. Renovating a historic building came with limitations, and so ceiling heights differ from floor to floor, with those on the second floor being impressively lofty. All apartments are pet-friendly, with several sizes and configurations available – everything from studio to two-bedroomed spaces. All are airconditioned, and include well-stocked kitchenettes with Smeg appliances and dishwashers. While glazing ensures all apartments are quiet, those that aren’t street-facing are better suited to guests wanting a more peaceful stay.
Don’t miss The lobby serves as a meeting point and bar, and offers a chic space in which to grab a coffee or cocktail. With oversized windows onto Rua de São Bento, relaxing (or working) here leaves one gazing at passersby and feeling like a local.
Lifestyling loves The serviced apartments include breakfast, which can be taken in one of two ways – either as a pre-ordered breakfast basket delivered to one’s apartment at a prearranged time, or in the form of a set menu at the adjacent Hello, Kristof coffee roastery. Spending several nights at The Verse? We recommend trying both breakfasts. Additional to this, apartments include a welcome gift with local artisanal snacks.
www.theverse.com
PALACIO LUDOVICE
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Best for A luxe crash course in Portuguese wines and viniculture
Neighbourhood For those who want a Lisbon stay to include a healthy dose of miradouros (elevated lookout points), look no further than Palácio Ludovice, which has, quite literally, on its doorstep the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint, adjacent to which is the (almost 24-hour) tourist attraction, the Gloria funicular. Step out the hotel and to one’s left is swanky Principe Real, and to one’s right Bairro Alto and Chiado.
Ambience Given its prime location, the hotel doesn’t boast outdoor spaces, but what’s inside this truly historic palace (it survived Lisbon’s infamous 1755 earthquake) has been tastefully restored by architect Miguel Câncio Martins. His inspiration? The country’s rich winemaking history. From unusual cane and wickerwork in the lobby and restaurant, to carpets in Palácio Ludovice’s passageways, this inspiration filters through in innovative and subtle ways, resulting in an understated but stylish stay.
Rooms Pastel colours, fine patterns and rich textures are what characterise the sophisticated, decorated rooms, from large suites that overlook the miradouro, to those tucked away in quieter corners of the restored palace. A pillow menu and Caudalie toiletries come standard, as does a replenishable supply of mineral water (much needed after indulging in the hotel’s wine offerings). After something more unusual? Some rooms include historic hand painted azulejo tiles, and one creatively occupies what was formerly a palace kitchen.
Don’t miss Complimentary for guests are wine tasting sessions during which Palácio Ludovice’s head sommelier, Miguel Ventura, explains what wines come from which Portuguese regions (and why), and talks guests through the tasting of three wines, paired with a selection of tapenades, butters, crackers and nuts. Joining one of these sessions is not only informative, but a great way to meet one’s neighbours.
Lifestyling loves Federico restaurant is where the hotel’s lavish breakfasts are served, with a plentiful buffet that caters to all, including the health conscious. But it’s at lunch and dinner here that the hotel gets innovative, upending standard customs by encouraging guests to begin their dining experience choosing what wines they’d like to drink, and then suggesting dishes that pair well with them.
